Day 22. To Kasama and Kawa Strip in Zambia

We departed Songwe just a little after 9:00am.  The forecast called for cool air, light rain in places, and calm winds.  Twenty minutes into the flight, Nick and I heard on the radio that Wolf and daughter Emily in the Pipistrael were returning to Songwe with an elevated cylinder head temperature.  A wise decision as being out over vast wilderness with a condition causing a cylinder head temp. to rise can make one's day very complicated very fast.  We wished them well and could hear others on our 123.45 radio frequency offering to escort them back but they felt close enough to make it back without incident so we all proceeded towards our fueling stop at Kasama.

The battery in our aircraft was working okay now, but my Canon camera battery lost its power so switched to my iPhone camera which I did not like using in flight as it has no wrist strap and any sudden turbulence could wrench it out of my hand and out of the cockpit where some unsuspecting hyena or giraffe could come across it and try to discern its identity and possible nourishment value.  I thought about the wonderful movie, "The Gods Must Be Crazy" about a gentle Bushman of the Kalahari walking along in the desert to hunt for dinner when he gets hit on the head with an empty Coca Cola bottle tossed out of an airplane at high altitude.  The poor Bushman, rubbing his sore head, picks up the bottle and looks up at a blue sky where he can just make out a distant object moving fast towards the horizon.  That coke bottle "from the gods" became the center piece of a rash of misadventures for the innocent Bushman and his tribe.

There was a broken cloud cover which we decided to fly under.  Good decision as the visibility under the clouds was very good and we flew low over the most amazing Zambian landscapes of alternating dense forests and emerald green meadows.

Just before landing in Kasama, we heard on the radio that Wolf and Emily had their plane's cylinder head temperature situation checked out and problem was explained and resolved and they were on their way now to join us.  Everybody was happy to hear this.  We had become a family of intrepid adventurers and we had enormous interest in the well-being of all of us.  At Kasama, we taxied to our parking spots on a large square ramp in front of a slightly aged terminal.  A chain link fence rimmed the ramp area and pressed up to that fence were probably 300 local  people of all ages starring at us as we climbed out of our cockpits.  Most of them looked serious as they gazed with obvious curiosity.  We were being directed by official airport greeters and customs agents to proceed to the terminal to get our paper work and visas done.  I couldn't resist sidestepping closer to the fence to get near the locals.  Little children, noses pressed through the openings in the fence, looked at me with enormous eyes.  I called out "Hello!" to all of them and the serious looks disappeared and they all started smiling and laughing.

Customs clearing for about 40 people in the small terminal was an exercise in turning in tight circles to get out of the way of the next person in line.  There was some discussion about visas and one of the agents let it be known that we U.S. citizens didn't need visas.  Well, okay. Sounded good.  After getting our passports stamped, we moved back out to the ramp where we could stop and chat with the people lining the fences.  They were so nice, and full of questions.  We had to get on with the business of refueling so  did so knowing that the process involving one refueling truck would take a lot of time -- as usual.

After 45 minutes or so,  the airport authority decided to allow the locals, who  did not return to their homes but actually increased their numbers as more family members arrived, to come out on to the ramp and see the planes up close.  When that gate opened, a tide of humanity poured out on the ramp and made beelines for us.  Nick called out to me, "Watch out that no one tries to climb on the plane!"  He was still trying to direct the refueling truck in our direction.   We were all actually happy to greet these people and answer their questions and let them take pictures.  When Nick joined me, he helped some children into the cockpits,  put our caps and goggles on them and their parents happily took pictures with their phones.  It was like a huge "Show and Tell" exhibit in school.  I remember standing near the wing and this very serious boy of about 16 years of age came up to me.  He was not comfortable making eye contact with me nor did he smile.  He just starred at the plane and in a low voice asked,  "Is this your plane?"  "Yes."  "What is it?"  "It's a Travel  Air 4000".  He kept starring at the fuselage and wings and then asked, "Where are the guns?"  Well, this took me aback.  He still wouldn't look at me and all I could say was,  "There are no guns.  We don't need any guns."  "Didn't it come with guns?"   It began to dawn on me where this line of questioning was coming from.  "In World War I there were airplanes that looked something like this one -  an open cockpit biplane -  and they had guns mounted on them after they were made.  Those pilots were in a war.  We're not in a war, so we don't need guns mounted on our plane."  The boy then turned his attention to questions about flying. "How long does it take to learn how to fly? A year?"  Oh how I enjoyed giving him the good news that a seventeen year old could get his Private Pilot's license in a couple of months, maybe sooner if he were to fly  everyday.  His eyes betrayed a bit of elation though he still was not wanting to look directly at me.  I guessed it may have been a religious or family cultural assessment that such behavior would be rude.  I really don't know for sure.  As I turned to field questions from others who surrounded me, he wandered off.  I still think about him and wonder how a boy with an obvious interest in airplanes and flying who lived in a town far from a major city on this vast continent would ever have the opportunity to pursue his interest.

As the fueling process was nearing an end, we U.S.  citizens were alerted that a mistake had been made in the Customs office and the we did in fact need to fill out Visa forms and make payment.  This process was going to slow us down more and as we lined up to get done what was required, a huge, very black storm cell started heading our way.  Others whose documents were in order were told to go ahead and take off for Kawa, our final stop for the day.

Finally finished with Customs, we returned to the ramp and headed for our planes.  The locals had retreated homeward in the face of an advancing storm.  The sky just about 2 miles from the airfield was heavily bruised with black and blue clouds and it was all moving our way.  The wind was just starting to pick up.  Sam and Max yelled at us, "Go! Go!  Take off now!"  We ( five aircraft)  lined up and took off one after the other down the dirt strip banking left and building up  airspeed to increase the distance between us and that storm cell.  The Grand Caravan and Antonov stayed behind to wait out the storm.  Everyone else was in various formations headed to Kawa.

This second leg of flying was really very nice.  We had gotten ahead of the storm.  There was an overcast, the air was reasonably calm and we enjoyed the vastness below us as we kept an eye out for each other and for wildlife below.  Throughout the rally, I always made it a point to keep track of everyone flying in our particular formation.  I would count them out in my head and check the count again after 15 minutes or so.  As we individually might make turns or climbs or dives at whim, I felt it  important to keep track of where everybody was in relation to us.  We flew over some amazing wetlands that seemed to go on forever.  The sun was out in full at this point and the light reflected beautifully  off the marsh grasses and reeds.  It was amazing to see out in the middle of this seemingly uninhabited expanse a few grass huts and fisherman in homemade boats out on the dark nature-made canals meandering through the carpet of spongy green march cover.  We buzzed over them and they were as surprised to see us as we them.

Kawa is a private grass airstrip owned by a British, Zimbabwe-born man who, like other British ex-patriot land owners and farmers, took part in the "White Flight" after Robert Mugabe became president of Zimbabwe in the early '80s.  These ex-pats preferred the prospects of maintaining their lifestyles in tension-free Zambia.  The estate where the airstrip is located is comprised of  lovely, well-groomed lawns, a man-made lake, a beautiful home, and a staff of workers who in anticipation of our arrival had prepared a delicious lunch and cocktail bar in the shade of an outdoor dining area.

Here, the "locals" who greeted us were White ladies wearing big sun hats, and gentlemen in their hats,  and sporting walking sticks.  The feel of our host's environs was decidedly colonial and so this visit was a big step back in time in some ways.  The only Black people whom we saw were the shy, reserved, cautious staff who were catering to our culinary and libation needs.

The Caravan and Antonov did arrive in Kawa about the time we did as they flew faster.  There story about "waiting out the storm" in Kasama caught all our interest.  Minutes after we five aircraft took off from Kasama, the storm cell hit the field like a bang.  Winds went from near calm to moderate to severe in very short time and the heavy Antonov nearly weather vaned into the wind while the Caravan was pushed around, fortunately without sustaining any damage.  Torrents of rain came out of the sky.  It was agreed that if  our light, vintage aircraft as well as the Cessnas and Pipistrael and possibly the helicopters had not made it out in time,  they would have all been flipped into the air and damaged beyond repair.  The Crete2Cape Rally would have ended that afternoon except for the two big luggage/cargo carriers!  After departing Kasama finally, they encountered moderate to heavy turbulence as the storm cell took up its post in the area they needed to get through.  Martyn's wife, Julia,  had nearly decided afterwards to finish out the rally on camel!  Olivier, one of the video crew who flew in the Antonov was exceptionally green around the gills when he got off the plane in Kawa.  It was not a fun flight for them. We were happy though to know we were all now safe and sound in Kawa.

After our lunch, Pedro and Keith in their Travel Airs, Johannes in the Waco, Boris and Yulie in the helicopter performed an airshow for everybody doing low passes and just having a lot of fun.  It was a great, "barnstorming" sight to see.

We stayed the night at a nearby youth camp with dormitories and a few three bedroom cabins for the "married folk".  Nick and I shared a cabin with Cedric and Alexandra, and Paddy and Sarah (pilots of one of the two helicopters).  The rooms were rustic and not unlike the accommodations I experienced when I went on Girl Scouting trips in the 6th grade except for the tap water which appeared out of the bathroom sink and tub taps in varying shades of brown and orange depending on how long one was willing to let the water run through sputtering cycles of steam.  Our beds did have nets which was very nice.

The night went by uneventfully though I was hoping for the distant sound of a lioness and/or her mate conversing with each other in those low, guttural announcements like we heard in Tanzania.

Enroute to fueling stop in Kasama.  A cloudy day, but fun flying over this beautiful stretch of Zambian wilderness.

 Welcoming crowds in Kasama.

 On the VintageAirRally website or Facebook page, there are videos of the rally and one shows the moment the gates were opened and these lovely people swarmed out on the ramp to learn things about us and our airplanes.

 
I took this photo of the storm cell as we taxied out for a quick departure from Kasama. The Caravan is still parked on the ramp.  The coming downpour can be seen about a half mile behind the Caravan.  The two rampers in green vests waved at us with big smiles though worried if we were making it out in time.

Still close to Kasama, we could see distant storm cells passing through the region. 

Weather improved as we headed out of the wetlands of  Chilubi. 

Over vast, isolated expanses like this, it was always comforting to know  a friend was right off our left wing!  "Hello, Cedric and Alexandra!" 

In the middle of this marshland, we came across a couple of dwellings.  The waters here have abundant fish life and for the family living here, life was good!

Parked at the private Kawa grass strip.  These birds of ours just looked so at home on a sod strip. 

Fueling at Kawa.  The guys helping Nick delivered the fuel barrels in this truck going from plane to plane.  The poor guy last in line had to wait a long time.  Fortunately, our greeters here came around with beverages and good conversation. 

Nick and Alexandra chatting after a long day of flying. The red Nu-Waco flown by Johannes and Fabian of Germany is in the background.

 This is what our airspace clearance documentation looked like.  Nick and I (Team Alaska) wore the rally number 11 on our plane.  All of this, was of course, worked out with the authorities in each country ahead of time.

Day 21. Dodoma and Songwe (Tanzania)

We were at the Zanzibar Airport in good time, yet, as often happened, we all had to wait for things to get done in terms of fuel handling, paperwork etc so I sat comfortably in my cozy cockpit watching all the usual airport ramp activity going on around us and all the sounds of aircraft - commercial and otherwise -taxiing about;  I actually found myself dozing.  When not doing that, I put pen to paper and wrote my notes for our stay in Zanzibar.  I've decided paper and pen are wonderful inventions -- they come in so handy when wi-fi internet, iPads, and laptops either aren't accessible or they get an "attitude".

It was "start your engines!" time, and we then discovered our battery was dead.  With Colin's help, prop was hand-cranked and our engine started up nicely.  The problem now was that our radio and the intercom didn't work. Our iPads worked so we still had our nav aids.  Nick and I agreed on hand signals and his patting me on the shoulder for communication between us.  Nick would rely on the hand-held radio for communication with air traffic control services.

We took off and once again (and for the last time) with donned life vests, headed back out over the water to mainland Tanzania.  Over open water in an old airplane powered by a single radial engine is always cause for caution so on these occasions we always made sure to pick the shortest distance between land masses, stay close and within sight of our rally mates, and make sure our emergency locator beacon  -  the "Yellow Brick" - was on. That checklist complete, we just had a ball enjoying the scenery,  especially the advancing shoreline, and soaring, climbing, and diving.  Pedro was particularly enthralled with climbing and arcing over us and down the other side.  Sometimes we got close enough to each other to wave and take pictures of our friends.  The GoPro cameras mounted on our aircraft filmed everything we did and edited-down video of the fun flying can be seen on some of the VintageAirRally Facebook posts.

Our first stop was Dodoma for refueling.  The day was hot, and milling around on the ramp waiting for our turn to get fuel was a very hot way to spend time.  Some nice locals came out to see us and an airport official brought his adorable toddler whom I just had to  pick up and play with for a bit.  Across the street in what looked like a private residence was a "cafe".  There were very few items on "the menu" --a type of 'tortilla' made from a grain I was not familiar with - (looked something like Norwegian leftse), cooked beans, hard boiled eggs, and soda pop.  I opted for the flat bread/tortilla.  Rolled up with some butter, it was pretty good.  The cafe was very sparse and only  a few locals were there socializing. I remember thinking to myself that where I come from if an eating establishment is sparse and not well patronized, you probably don't want to eat there.  I took my chances and am glad to report it all set just fine.

Back at the ramp, we were once again the last to get fuel.  By now, other planes that usually  flew way ahead of us did not wait for us.  They took off and headed towards Songwe.  The other two Travel Airs and the Stampe, however, waited for us and we flew close inasmuch as our radio  situation was down to one hand=held.  If the iPads had problems, navigating to our next stop could be challenging so we always made sure to see and be seen by others in our loose formation.  With our rare group, we essentially had the sky to ourselves!

As we got closer to Songwe,  our iPads did develop problems maintaining connectivity to a separate GPS device that we had.  This meant we had to rely on Cedric to keep reporting to Nick the DME (distance to Songwe) and ground speed reports.  The visibility got a little hazy and ridges were ahead.  Thank you, Cedric, for being our extra eyes and keeping us on track!  The approach into Songwe was a little tricky as hills and mountains were all around but all went well and it was nice to be on the ground heading for our hotel and hot dinner.  It was December 2, my birthday, and I was feeling like milestones were happening all around me!

At dinner, the kitchen staff and Prepare2Go staff surprised me with a wonderful, large birthday cake which I gladly cut up and shared with every person in the dining room who wanted a piece.

Our briefing for morning covered our usual rising and wheels up times as well as flying into Zambia - the 6th African country on our trip so far.  We realized we were more than half way through this amazing trip. We were becoming old hands at this flying around in vintage planes but each day brought the promise of new sights and adventures.

 Our early morning departure from the hotel meant we got boxed breakfasts to eat in the bus to the airport.  Colin, dutiful son who when growing up always listened to his mother's tutelage on dental hygiene (!) is brushing his teeth while sleepy eyes are at half mast.  Like all of us, he would have preferred to be back in bed for another hour's sleep.  Well, there's nothing like the throaty conversation of a radial engine and lots of fresh air in the face to perk us all up!

 


 Enroute to Dodoma.  We saw many interesting land "eruptions" like this one.

 This photo shows Cedric and Alexandra in the Stampe flying in formation with us.  You get an idea of the vastness of the wilderness we were flying over.  This shows my point of view from the forward cockpit.  

 Village life along the way.

At Dodoma for a refueling stop and some fun Kiddo time.  Colin and Nick are conferring over battery problem.

When conditions were good, we enjoyed flying low.  Here we're about 150'.  The remoteness of the area was compounded by the horizon to horizon vista where we saw no obvious signs of human activity.

  Our Sky Demon navigation aid on my iPad shows our routing to Songwe Airport.  The pinkish tones show the higher land elevations. The airport is clearly surrounded by hills and ridges.   It was annoying when at times we'd suddenly  lose our GPS connection and the screen would go blank.  Often, mine would work when Nick's didn't and visa versa.  We heard others on the radio sometimes having the same problem.

Weather systems like this one would appear on the horizon and I enjoyed watching their movement until they disappeared again over the horizon.  We naturally avoided getting too close to them.

 
    A couple of good views of the colors, patterns, and shapes in this beautiful country.

We stayed close to Team Barnstormers and Team Frog and Kiwi.  Flying like this, we all kept our eyes peeled for wildlife and ...other aircraft, of course! 

The Antonov to our right.  It's entry door is open as camera crew onboard were sitting at the opening, harnessed for safety, taking photos and videos of us. 

 


Before arriving in Songwe, we caught sight of this herd of elephants. You can see a few of them near the right edge of the photo.  They blend in a bit with their surroundings. 

 

Days 19 and 20. Zanzibar.

Those of us who drove to Ngorongoro had the pleasure of being herded very capably by Tiger Moth pilot Brett who knew too well how easy it is to slip into lollygagging when the hour seems hostile to rushing.  He was serious about us all piling into the Land Rovers by a certain time so we wouldn't hold up the show back at the "Kili" airport.  We were given breakfast boxes with fruit, juice, hard boiled eggs, and meat sandwiches.

The drive DOWN the crater rivaled Mr. Toad's wild ride.  Our driver leaned on the gas most of the way but knew exactly when to hit the brakes just before a big rut or pothole.  The lurching and bumping about was ...well, "memorable".  We saw many baboons along the road perched on rocks watching us with skeptical, judgmental eyes.

Once on the highway, we breezed along at a good clip.  We stopped for coffee at an espresso bar next door to a gallery of art, jewelry, and textile works by disabled artists.  Nick bought me a lovely necklace.  The director of the gallery made a point of telling us that an identical necklace caught actor George Clooney's eye when he visited a year ago.  He bought it for his wife so next time we run into the Clooney's while out shopping maybe Amal and I will be wearing our special necklaces.

At the airport we were faced with huge fueling delays. As we were the last to get fuel, we had to deal with the frustration of the fuel truck running out of fuel before our two tanks were topped off for the 3 1/2 hour flight to Zanzibar.  A Cessna 206 that joined our rally in Nairobi had taken off with full tanks.  As his airccraft flew much faster than ours and his fuel range was better, he was called back to the "Kili" airport to 'off load' some of his fuel for us. After all this was taken care of, it was 1:42 pm by  the time we took off.

 It was a nice flight and we donned our life vests again for our 25+ mile water crossing to the island.  Cedric and Alexandra, Pedro, Keith and Colin, and Nick and I were the last formation to land.  The airport there is big and very accommodating.  Our hotel, the MaruMaru is located in Old Stone Town in the center of old narrow streets and alley ways, small shops, and --sadly, again -- a great deal of litter and trash.  I will never understand how filthy streets and sidewalks don't seem to bother the residents. Nick encouraged me to "look beyond the trash" and I gave it my best shot.  The people were very friendly and our hotel was very nice in a 1930s/40s sort of way. Our room had these window shutters that opened to reveal patios above and below us. Big palms were planted in a small, central courtyard where people could sit in a garden atmosphere for coffee.  It had the feel of a place where if Humphrey Bogart walked in with Sidney Greenstreet I would not have been surprised.  If they were dressed up in pilot uniforms worn by the Boeing Clipper amphibian crews I would have been thrilled. A spacious and relaxing dining area and cocktail lounge up on the roof gave us a great view of the city and the Indian Ocean a few blocks away.  An Islamic mosque's minaret  highlighted the cityscape and I enjoyed the melodious call to prayer in the late afternoon.

Zanzibar has a rich history over the centuries past for being the crossroad of commerce from Asia into Africa.  Traders and spice merchants came from afar and weavers and fishermen moved their products through the teeming city to market places throughout.  This is still going on.  In the big market where we browsed the next day, the smells of exotic flowering plants, fish fresh out of the ocean, cardamon and cinnamon spices, and the sounds of bartering absolutely filled the senses.  The weather was so nice for us which made it pleasant for walking all afternoon to see as much as we could fit in. We bought a lot of gifts here to take home with us. 

In the evening we had a wonderful dinner and received our wake-up,/ wheels up instructions for the morning.  And another early morning.  "Cicadian rhythms be damned. 4:45am it is."

Cedric and Alexandra along side us enroute to Zanzibar.

We approach Zanzibar Airport after water crossing from mainland Tanzania.

 A lovely cocktail reception awaited us at the Zanzibar Serena Hotel at the beach.  Some of these functions were arranged by our Puma Energy sponsors who excitedly managed to greet us at most of our stops.  After being in a noisy, open cockpit plane for many hours, these kind of gatherings helped us unwind and breathe in the ambience of a refreshing social gathering.

 
From the veranda of the Serena Hotel and our reception, we had a nice view of the beach and harbor opening out to the Indian Ocean.  At this time of the late afternoon, only men were seen on the beach.  Apparently, women and children "get" the beach in the early afternoon.

 From the roof of our hotel, the MaruMaru, we had a great view of the Indian Ocean and a passing tanker.

 In the lounge area next to the dining room up on the roof of our hotel, we had this nice panaromic view of the cityscape.  The spires of a Christian church and the minaret of a mosque appear content to be neighbors.

 Pilots Mark, Norman, and Nick comparing "notes" up on the roof before dinner.

 Throughout the rally, I could not resist adorable children.  They are EVERYWHERE.  This little girl was with her mother up on the roof for dinner and she caught everyone's eye with her sparkle and enthusiasm for exploring.  She was not afraid of anyone.  I always say children are the hope of  the world and for that reason there are no other VIPs as important as they.

At the spice market on a hot, sunny afternoon.  The smells were wonderful.

These beautiful doors were for sale at the market as well.  I really liked the one on the right.  "Honey, if we strapped it to the wing, couldn't we...?" 

Days 17 and 18. To Kilimanjaro and Ngorongoro Crater.

Our flight to Tanzania was so much fun.  We were a bit late leaving Nairobi, but we had pretty good weather and toyed with the afternoon thermals moving us upon and down over the sprawling expanse of wilderness and wildlife.  Pixie up ahead broadcast a contest to see who spotted the first wildlife.  I don't recall who earned that distinction but we enjoyed all that we were able to see.

After about 70 minutes into our flight we caught sight in the distance of the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  It's crown was obscured by a pretty dark storm cell which unfurled wispy arms of virga down the sides of the mountain.  As we neared, it became a more awesome sight than I imagined.  Weather and terrain have the most fascinating relationship and sometimes I think the pair have fun playing with our senses.  In any case, we stayed way to the right of the mountain and followed a narrow clearing that lead us to Kilimanjaro International Airport.

We landed there close to 4 PM and what with clearing customs and arranging fuel, it became apparent that it was too late in the day to fly on to  Ngorongoro Crater the same day.  The decision was made to park all the aircraft and make the short drive to Arusha where our hotel accommodations were. The next morning, those who wanted to fly to the air strip near the crater could do so, and those who were not inclined to attempt the landing and takeoff at a 5000' dirt strip at an elevation of 7,760' could leave their aircraft at "Kili" and drive from Arusha to the Crater where we would stay the night at a beautiful lodge perched on the crater rim.  We opted to leave Smuggler at "Kili".

Before leaving the airport for Arusha, the weather around the mountain cleared enough that we finally caught sight of the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  It was impressive but muted somewhat by the fact that the great photos of the mountain that we all remember from decades past showing a snow-covered mountain are no longer representative of a mountain that has lost its snow.  Mt. Kilimanjaro is now a brownish gray mountain with just a few streaks of snow -- looking a bit naked, I suppose.

We stayed the night at the Arusha Serena Hotel.  5 star in a most charming, rustic but comfortable, beautifully appointed and landscaped way.  Internet was sketchy  in places.  It really only worked in the lobby but this kind of concession was easy to deal with given where we were and what we were experiencing.  In the morning, after a hearty breakfast buffet, those of us driving to the Crater set out in vans driven by park staff.  The "flyers" headed back to "Kili" to fuel up and fly to the Crater strip.  Our drive took us through the town of Arusha where we saw the activities of a typical Tanzanian township during a work day.  Venders were opening their shops, scores of school children in school uniforms were walking or riding on the backs of their parents' vespas to school.  The roads were neglected somewhat so ruts and puddles were the order of the day.  Goats and chickens all appeared to have an agenda too.  They trotted or pecked along their way in the flow of human traffic as if they couldn't be late either.  After 45 minutes or so, we began our ascent of the crater up winding and precipitous roads so narrow in places that it was hard to imagine two vehicles going in opposite directions being able to pass each other.  Well, we found out our driver was well schooled in the art of doing this.  He was unruffled by the mere inch that separated the opposing vehicle's side view mirror from our own.  He was completely focused on the single task at hand - keep moving forward no matter what.

At the rim, we stopped at a lookout and spreading out below us was this amazing caldera --part of the World Heritage Site of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  It is the largest volcanic caldera in the world and its rim is perfectly  intact.  The caldera is unfilled so its basin is a vast wilderness of savanna and wildlife.  The eruption that formed this caldera happened roughly 2.5 million years ago.  Masai people inhabit the area and still herd livestock.

After checking into our accommodations at the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, we boarded our range rovers for a game drive down in the crater.  It was an unforgettable afternoon of getting up close and personal with hyenas, lions, zebras, hippos, water buffalo, elephants, interesting fowls, and even one very flashy, "exquisitely dressed" lizard that shimmered in greens and blues as it allowed us to drive very close to the rock it was sun bathing on.  Nick and I could hardly believe we were in this incredible setting.  Little did we consider that sights like this are but a small representation of all the wildlife preserves -- and many much bigger -- that stretch the width and breadth of this huge portion of the African continent.   One lioness we saw sat alone on her haunches in some tall grass.  All we saw were her head and shoulders.  She stared off into the distance and completely ignored us.  She seemed focused on something.  We assumed - and rightly it seems -- that she was eyeing a zebra herd way in the distance and plotting her strategy for later in the evening.  I love how nature has endowed these beasts with instincts that reward the disciplined, highly skilled nerve impulses that move quickly between brain and muscles for the sake of survival.  A lion who gets lazy or distracted doesn't get to eat.  In the wild, life is as simple as that.

That evening before dinner and after a nice cool shower we sat in our provided terry bath robes out on our private deck gazing over the crater floor we had just visited.  The sky was headed towards dusk and the quiet all around us was beautiful.  A little red wine could be from the most average winery and it didn't matter in this setting.  The wine was fabulous. We both wished we could have stayed here for a week.  In the dining room at dinner we were entertained by a Masai group that chanted and danced for us.  Jumping straight up into the air is their specialty and they revel in the contest to demonstrate their prowess over each other.

Saying good night and turning out the light on this amazing day was hard knowing that in the morning - the EARLY 5:30 AM morning -- we would have to head back down the crater to the lowlands and head back to "Kili".  But another adventure lay ahead and we would not be disappointed. Till then, we nodded off to sleep hearing the echoing sounds of struggle from the crater floor as that patient lioness got her sustenance to see her through another day.

Enroute to Kilimanjaro and circling over a small herd of elephants.  "Pixie! We spotted wildlife!" 

After our arrival at Kilimanjaro International Airport and clearing customs.

 Smuggler and Team Barnstormers' Travel Air parked at "Kili".  Mt. Kilimanjaro is behind the aircraft under the big cloud.

The summit of the mountain now visible after clouds graciously parted.  Smuggler is tucked in for the night. 

Our lodgings at Arusha. Very comfortable and air conditioned.

 





 Next day, Oppegards at a rest stop enroute by Land Rover van to Ngorongoro Crater.  Nick had a weird dream about a tree during the night --he didn't seem to be able to "shake it".

Pixie enjoying a joke while at rest stop.  John Baxter and Colin liked the punch line.

Before beginning the drive up the steep sides of the crater, we stopped at this visitor's center where we learned a great deal about the history of the region. 

Masai school children on a field trip to the center. 

 Our first view of the crater's caldera from one of the viewing lots at the rim.  The size is unbelievably huge.  We can only imagine what this eruption 2-3 million years ago must have been like. 

 Keith, after landing his plane at the crater airfield.  Colin did not fly with him to lighten the load for a tricky  landing.  Keith did great!  Look closely and you'll see a group of young Masai men in the distance behind the aircraft.  They freely roam the area and move their goats from place to place.  They were very curious about us and the planes.  They also hoped to sell us little items they made.

As you can see, we were most comfortably outfitted for the night.  The Serena Lodge lacked nothing.  Prepare2Go, with Nathalie and Estelle working out the details, made sure we stayed in the best hotels and lodges. 

Our view of the caldera from our private deck.  Very nice place to sit at sunset and enjoy a glass of wine.

During our game drive late afternoon down into the caldera, we came across this hyena enjoying a break in a cool puddle.  He languished before getting to work later in the evening when the lions got to hunting.

A herd of hippos doing their bit to keep ponds useful.  As we approached, I thought we were looking at big boulders.  
I had fun thinking just how fast a person would have to hop from humpy back to humpy back to get to the other side.  Don't think the hippos would like it much!  And they are dangerous!! 

                                                Focus and concentration.  I could learn a lot from her.

 

My apologies!

To any enthusiasts still patiently waiting for the completion of this blog, my humble and huge apologies.  Between some annoying computer problems and day to day distractions that chipped away at time, I allowed myself to get derailed from this worthwhile project.

Will NOW get my blog finished as I work to get my momentum moving in the direction of a completed story -  one that I am proud to say Nick and I actually experienced with all the wonder of kids at an amazing theme park. 

And now,...."the rest of the story".