After about 70 minutes into our flight we caught sight in the distance of the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It's crown was obscured by a pretty dark storm cell which unfurled wispy arms of virga down the sides of the mountain. As we neared, it became a more awesome sight than I imagined. Weather and terrain have the most fascinating relationship and sometimes I think the pair have fun playing with our senses. In any case, we stayed way to the right of the mountain and followed a narrow clearing that lead us to Kilimanjaro International Airport.
We landed there close to 4 PM and what with clearing customs and arranging fuel, it became apparent that it was too late in the day to fly on to Ngorongoro Crater the same day. The decision was made to park all the aircraft and make the short drive to Arusha where our hotel accommodations were. The next morning, those who wanted to fly to the air strip near the crater could do so, and those who were not inclined to attempt the landing and takeoff at a 5000' dirt strip at an elevation of 7,760' could leave their aircraft at "Kili" and drive from Arusha to the Crater where we would stay the night at a beautiful lodge perched on the crater rim. We opted to leave Smuggler at "Kili".
Before leaving the airport for Arusha, the weather around the mountain cleared enough that we finally caught sight of the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro. It was impressive but muted somewhat by the fact that the great photos of the mountain that we all remember from decades past showing a snow-covered mountain are no longer representative of a mountain that has lost its snow. Mt. Kilimanjaro is now a brownish gray mountain with just a few streaks of snow -- looking a bit naked, I suppose.
We stayed the night at the Arusha Serena Hotel. 5 star in a most charming, rustic but comfortable, beautifully appointed and landscaped way. Internet was sketchy in places. It really only worked in the lobby but this kind of concession was easy to deal with given where we were and what we were experiencing. In the morning, after a hearty breakfast buffet, those of us driving to the Crater set out in vans driven by park staff. The "flyers" headed back to "Kili" to fuel up and fly to the Crater strip. Our drive took us through the town of Arusha where we saw the activities of a typical Tanzanian township during a work day. Venders were opening their shops, scores of school children in school uniforms were walking or riding on the backs of their parents' vespas to school. The roads were neglected somewhat so ruts and puddles were the order of the day. Goats and chickens all appeared to have an agenda too. They trotted or pecked along their way in the flow of human traffic as if they couldn't be late either. After 45 minutes or so, we began our ascent of the crater up winding and precipitous roads so narrow in places that it was hard to imagine two vehicles going in opposite directions being able to pass each other. Well, we found out our driver was well schooled in the art of doing this. He was unruffled by the mere inch that separated the opposing vehicle's side view mirror from our own. He was completely focused on the single task at hand - keep moving forward no matter what.
At the rim, we stopped at a lookout and spreading out below us was this amazing caldera --part of the World Heritage Site of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It is the largest volcanic caldera in the world and its rim is perfectly intact. The caldera is unfilled so its basin is a vast wilderness of savanna and wildlife. The eruption that formed this caldera happened roughly 2.5 million years ago. Masai people inhabit the area and still herd livestock.
After checking into our accommodations at the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, we boarded our range rovers for a game drive down in the crater. It was an unforgettable afternoon of getting up close and personal with hyenas, lions, zebras, hippos, water buffalo, elephants, interesting fowls, and even one very flashy, "exquisitely dressed" lizard that shimmered in greens and blues as it allowed us to drive very close to the rock it was sun bathing on. Nick and I could hardly believe we were in this incredible setting. Little did we consider that sights like this are but a small representation of all the wildlife preserves -- and many much bigger -- that stretch the width and breadth of this huge portion of the African continent. One lioness we saw sat alone on her haunches in some tall grass. All we saw were her head and shoulders. She stared off into the distance and completely ignored us. She seemed focused on something. We assumed - and rightly it seems -- that she was eyeing a zebra herd way in the distance and plotting her strategy for later in the evening. I love how nature has endowed these beasts with instincts that reward the disciplined, highly skilled nerve impulses that move quickly between brain and muscles for the sake of survival. A lion who gets lazy or distracted doesn't get to eat. In the wild, life is as simple as that.
That evening before dinner and after a nice cool shower we sat in our provided terry bath robes out on our private deck gazing over the crater floor we had just visited. The sky was headed towards dusk and the quiet all around us was beautiful. A little red wine could be from the most average winery and it didn't matter in this setting. The wine was fabulous. We both wished we could have stayed here for a week. In the dining room at dinner we were entertained by a Masai group that chanted and danced for us. Jumping straight up into the air is their specialty and they revel in the contest to demonstrate their prowess over each other.
Saying good night and turning out the light on this amazing day was hard knowing that in the morning - the EARLY 5:30 AM morning -- we would have to head back down the crater to the lowlands and head back to "Kili". But another adventure lay ahead and we would not be disappointed. Till then, we nodded off to sleep hearing the echoing sounds of struggle from the crater floor as that patient lioness got her sustenance to see her through another day.
Enroute to Kilimanjaro and circling over a small herd of elephants. "Pixie! We spotted wildlife!"
After our arrival at Kilimanjaro International Airport and clearing customs.
Smuggler and Team Barnstormers' Travel Air parked at "Kili". Mt. Kilimanjaro is behind the aircraft under the big cloud.
The summit of the mountain now visible after clouds graciously parted. Smuggler is tucked in for the night.
Our lodgings at Arusha. Very comfortable and air conditioned.
Next day, Oppegards at a rest stop enroute by Land Rover van to Ngorongoro Crater. Nick had a weird dream about a tree during the night --he didn't seem to be able to "shake it".
Pixie enjoying a joke while at rest stop. John Baxter and Colin liked the punch line.
Before beginning the drive up the steep sides of the crater, we stopped at this visitor's center where we learned a great deal about the history of the region.
Masai school children on a field trip to the center.
Our first view of the crater's caldera from one of the viewing lots at the rim. The size is unbelievably huge. We can only imagine what this eruption 2-3 million years ago must have been like.
Keith, after landing his plane at the crater airfield. Colin did not fly with him to lighten the load for a tricky landing. Keith did great! Look closely and you'll see a group of young Masai men in the distance behind the aircraft. They freely roam the area and move their goats from place to place. They were very curious about us and the planes. They also hoped to sell us little items they made.
As you can see, we were most comfortably outfitted for the night. The Serena Lodge lacked nothing. Prepare2Go, with Nathalie and Estelle working out the details, made sure we stayed in the best hotels and lodges.
Our view of the caldera from our private deck. Very nice place to sit at sunset and enjoy a glass of wine.
During our game drive late afternoon down into the caldera, we came across this hyena enjoying a break in a cool puddle. He languished before getting to work later in the evening when the lions got to hunting.
A herd of hippos doing their bit to keep ponds useful. As we approached, I thought we were looking at big boulders.
I had fun thinking just how fast a person would have to hop from humpy back to humpy back to get to the other side. Don't think the hippos would like it much! And they are dangerous!!
Focus and concentration. I could learn a lot from her.
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