Travel Air

Travel Air

About Vintage Air Rally

"A flying rally across Africa, from Crete to Cape Town, for aircraft built before the 31st December 1939.

Following in the footsteps of the pioneering flights in the 1920s – we’ll connect some of the most beautiful and evocative points in Africa. Flying low along the Nile from Cairo to Khartoum, past the highlands of Ethiopia before the plains of Kenya and the home of African aviation in Nairobi. Then off again past Kilimanjaro into the Serengeti – and on to the spice island of Zanzibar. After a short pause to enjoy the Indian ocean, we continue, crossing Zambia to Victoria Falls, before continuing to Bulawayo in Zimbabwe. Our final days take us across Botswana and into stunning South Africa – to the Cape, journey’s end."

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Days 31, 32 Gabarone to Blue Mountain, South Africa

We took off from Gabarone around 0915 and headed to our first stop in South Africa, Lanseria,  southwest of Johannesburg,  where we  cleared customs and then proceeded to Baragwanath Field for a reception, and then on to our final destination for the next two nights, Blue Mountain -- a private grass strip owned by aviator and vintage plane enthusiast, John Sayers.

Every leg of flying this day was beautiful and reminded us that since our first day in Egypt, the changes in terrain, flora and fauna along this incredible journey were subtle but dynamic.  The thought occurred to me that if I had known something about geology, the lands we had been flying over would have told an intricate story.  My dad who was an armchair enthusiast of geology, and our nephew, Winston Seiler, who is a geologist could have also fleshed out the story passing underneath us.

At Baragwanath, we were greeted by media people from various news agencies including one from China who interviewed me for several minutes wanting to get a woman's perspective on such an adventure.  Again, the Puma people had prepared a wonderful spread of food and beverages for us and other aviation people who arrived to be part of the fun.  Nick, Keith and Ingo took people up for rides, and then we all headed to our destination at Blue Mountain - a mere 22 minute flight away.  Mr. Sayers's beautiful "spread" included two large hangars housing an amazing collection of aircraft.  One of the hangars has a wooden parquet floor kept spotless by two employees who sweep and mop it regularly!  John's collection included a Grumman Trojan T38, a Ziln 50 aerobatic plane, a Waco, T-6 Harvard, Stearman, Chipmunk, and a Piper Cub.  He had others but can't remember them all!

Soon after our arrival, a few other pilots from the area showed up in their aircraft -- including a Waco --to entertain us with low fly-bys and some fancy aerial maneuvers.  Pedro got back in his Travel Air and Johannes in his Waco to join them in the fun.  The sounds of radial engines roaring past as they fun-strafed the field right before us was exhilarating.

Our planes were parked in a long, neat row along the groomed grass in front of the larger hangar.  While the air show was going on, Estelle and Max came around to distribute new two-man tents, pillows, and foam mats to all of us as our accommodations here were in the spirit of the barnstormers of yore who slept under their aircrafts' wings.  After weeks of staying mostly in 5 star hotels, this was a change welcomed by some and tolerated by others, and, though not accomplished at 'camping out', I thought really needed to be part of this adventure of vintage aircraft flying. After years of adapting to a variety of circumstances dictated by that old 'saw' attributed to John Lennon, "Life is what happens to you while you're making other plans", I have learned to extract humor and perspective (usually in hindsight) for adventures outside my comfort zone.  After Ethiopia, what's a tent?!,

By early evening, the sky was still a warm-lit panorama of changing hues.  It may have been December 12th, but it was summer here and the air felt great.  We could hear the sounds of crickets greeting the approaching dusk as staff were preparing a large barbecue for all of us outside the hangar.  After days that  started at hours of the morning deemed "weird" by  night owls like me, and then followed by hours of flying and sightseeing, I was really tired.  It was coming up on 8 o'clock and the barbecue was not quite ready.  I decided to crawl into our tent for a 'quick nap'.  Our tent was pitched next to our plane in front of the main hangar which has a large covered lounge area with tables, sofas etc arranged comfortably around a long coffee table.  A nearby room has an array of flying books, photographs, and recognition plaques.  It's like a mini aviation museum.  From the lounge, a door leads directly into the hangar with the parquet floor and a couple of bathrooms with showers that would be at our disposal.

Sizing up the location of our  tent, I realized that this area would quickly become the "club" hangout for our large crowd and the sounds of revelry might go deep into the night.  As tired as I was, I decide to move our tent further down the parking ramp near a small building that housed a sink and a couple of toilets.  I crawled into the tent and the next thing I remembered was Nick waking me up to say I was missing the barbecue which was almost over.  I had definitely moved us to a quiet area.

I joined a group that was finishing up on dinner and managed to get a plate going for myself.  John Baxter and Sam where having an animated conversation about aviation;  their wives, Janice and Beatrice, helped  referee and temper the heat.  When it comes to enthusiasm about airplanes, there are always differing points of view about one such aspect or another.  This made me think of the pilots I remembered in King Salmon, Alaska -- where I grew up --bending each other's ears over the merits of this engine or that engine, this pair of floats over that pair of floats etc.  It put a smile on my face and made me appreciate the charm of interesting people passionate about flying and the different ways to approach it.

Back at the tent later, I realized how tired I really was.  All I could muster the energy to do was brush my teeth and take out my contact lenses.  I wiggled into my sleeping bag fully dressed and prepared to conk out.  Then the storm came..

First came the sudden onslaught of wind.  It howled across the fields and buildings like a stampede of  mustangs.  Pilots double-checked tie-downs and Nick got back into  the tent as lightning and thunder began its show.  The thunder was so loud, I thought  the Flying Dutchmen were making simultaneous bowling strikes one after the other.  Every flash of lightning illuminated the interior of our tent.  Rain came in relentless sheets and we huddled hoping our new tent had been treated with water repellent!  Apparently, it was.

At 0545, Nick woke me up to share the news that a hot air balloon ride had been arranged for those of us who wanted to go.  Somewhat cranky and slow-moving, I managed to embrace the idea and after a cup of coffee and a bite of pastry set out for us by our hosts, we headed for the group going on the ride.  I had never been in a hot air balloon and as the storm had departed quickly during the night, the morning looked radiant.

John, Janice, Mark, Bob, Ingo, Fabian, Dale (a young man who joined the rally mid way to fly with Mark), Norman, Nick and I piled into the basket.  Our Captain gave us our safety briefing. With roaring blasts of flame intruding its heat into the bulb of the balloon,  we floated up into the air.  Fantastic!  I did wonder at one point if we had enough "juice" to make it back to Kansas then realized I had no desire to be in Kansas!  I was perfectly happy right where I was --South Africa!  Our ride was planned around wind velocity and direction.  It lasted 40 minutes and we so enjoyed seeing the landscape of fields and estates, grazing cows, country roads passing silently beneath us.  We began our descent to a field up ahead and passed low over a small village of rundown dwellings made of worn wood and tin sidings and roofs. The houses were crammed between muddy, narrow roads and footpaths. Men, women, and children looked up at us and waved.  Some dogs and cows quizzically cocked their heads upwards trying to make sense of the bird calls Fabian made at them.

Some children from the village made a beeline for the field where it was obvious we would be landing.  They shyly gawked at us as we crawled out of the basket.  Two of them got up the courage to come up to one of the support vehicles, hiding behind them and giggling as they peered around at us. "Adorableness" all around!  The inquisitive and curious mind in action is a joy to see.

Back at the field, I began the process of drying out our black rally book which got soaked in a corner of our tent during the night.  Somehow, water did get in though we were spared a deluge right on top of us.  In the club house/lounge, muffins, fresh fruit, and coffee were put out for us.  Soon planes from the local area including some new ones we hadn't seen the previous day showed up for another air show.  They parked in front of our tent and it was immediately clear we would have to move.  Never a good idea to have a tent behind a fleet of aircraft about to start up their engines!  I moved us to a spot closer to the outdoor kitchen tent and near a grove of shade trees.  Very nice.  Soon a large crowd of people showed up with kids and dogs.  Some Puma people arrived as well to start preparations for another barbecue later in the day.  People wanted to take photos of us and to ask many questions about the rally.   Nick was looking pretty tired and I wondered when another nap might be possible, but we put on our game faces and yielded to the media event this had become which was really fun in that we met such interesting people with amazing aviation stories of their own.

After dinner, Nick took our friend from Zimbabwe, Mina (Hermien Ferreira) who followed the rally to Cape Town, for a ride in "Smuggler".  She had a great time and I loved so much how Nick enjoyed sharing the flying experience with others.  It's a trait he has that I've been aware of for 40 years!  When we first met, he made it clear that though I was a licensed pilot, I did learn in a "milkstool" (Cessna 150) and that I would "better appreciate the joys of flying" (i.e. "be a REAL pilot) once I got checked out in a tail dragger.  It took me 12 years before I finally got checked out in a Taylor Craft L2.  On this rally, I had opportunities to fly "Smuggler" up at cruise, but definitely appreciated the fact that I was no longer a proficient tail dragger pilot and was happy to say to Nick, "You've got it!" upon approach to landing.

Before retiring for the evening, we became aware of a problem with our radio.  It seemed to have suffered some water damage after the big storm the night before.  Nick worked on it for some time without success, and then Colin stepped up to the plate.  He had considerable experience with radios after special training in communications with the army.  He took the radio out of the plane, took it all apart and wiped clean and dry all its contacts.  It did the trick and we had our radio back.  Thank you, Colin!   We did have a backup hand held radio, but our first choice was always the radio in the plane.

I moved our tent again.  This time into the large hangar where it was quieter and definitely dryer.  Also, close to the showers.  Very important!  We conked out after a long day and slumbered under the wing of John's Waco.







Enroute to Lanseria, South Africa to clear Customs.














Passing over a large hydro dam.














At Baragwanath Field.  Wind sock in background shows a pretty stiff wind.












Puma sponsored event with local and some international media.










 

Our friends, Cedric and Alexandra landing their Stampe at Blue Mountain Field
and taxiing to a good parking spot .




A few of our host John Sayer's collection of airplanes:  Chipmunk up top, a white Waco similar to Fabian's red one, and a Stearman.





A small kitchen set-up on large veranda of one of the hangars.
















Lounge/clubhouse area to left of kitchen.













Happy 'ralliers' relaxing at Blue Mountain Airfield.  Pedro's Travel Air looks spic and span. 












Our first tent site next to Smuggler right in front of the clubhouse hangar.















Keith and Colin's camp site under the wing.  Looks great, but coming storm prompted a quick change of sleeping venue!










Fabian setting up his campsite next to his Waco.  John Sayer's second hangar is in background.















Norman setting up his tent.  He forgot there was a cover for that top vent panel and the poor guy got soaked during the night!












John's Grumman Trojan T28 














Early morning and getting settled in the basket for our hot air balloon ride.  Ingo is taking photos and Mark is smiling in the background.















Lift off.  Nice view of John Sayer's place and his grass strip.












 Casting a giant shadow.















 Our "gang" lined up in front of hangar/clubhouse.

















Looking back at our starting point.


















We drifted over Cedric and Alexandra's plane.  We all hollered down to them, but at that early hour they were not about to emerge from their tent. 









 Some great views along the way.  So much fun!






Approaching rural village of wooden and tin houses.  We would end up landing in the field just beyond it.









 Some village sites as we flew over.  The woman outside stretching in the early morning wasn't aware of us until we greeted her from above.  A nice way to start the day, I suppose. Bottom photo contrasts with the earlier country estate.







Children venturing over to see us.



Nick having fun with these children.  Wherever he goes in the world, he bonds amazingly with children and they take to him with great enthusiasm.  He has that "way".  Can't describe it any better than that.  He says kids take to him because they know that inside "I'm just a little boy eight years old."

 "Roughing" it at our third tent site.

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Day 30 Limpopo Valley to Gabarone

We got ourselves up and moving, packing up our few belongings and headed for the dining room.  It was still raining some, and the light of dawn was just making its subtle entrance.   At breakfast we learned that the storm's winds had picked up considerably during the night and Brett's Tiger Moth and one of the helicopters got damaged during a particularly bad gust.  They ended up trying to occupy the same space!  We felt so badly for Brett and Pixie, Boris and Yulie.  Reports from the airfield also mentioned that the Antonov, big as it is, actually tried to weather vane into the wind but fortunately didn't get very far.  Brett and Pixie, who were staying at a different lodge nearby,  had been alerted to the damage and had already been to the airfield to size up the situation. Brett's assessment of the damage his plane had sustained convinced him he and  Pixie would have to proceed directly to Cape Town in a different airplane while his was being repaired.  We were all disappointed for them.  We had become a tight flying family and it was sad when misfortune landed on any of us.  We wished them well and looked forward to seeing them all at the terminus of the rally which was coming up fast.

The wind and rain that continued with cloud layers moving all around was the first encounter we had had with the possibility of a serious weather delay.  By 0700, though, things started looking up and we set off for the airfield.  The rain stopped and our drive back along the bumpy, dirt road was beautiful as the sun shone through and around the moving clouds aloft.  A herd of elephants crossed the road in front of us, and some giraffe about 150 yards away breakfasted on the high branches of trees swaying gently in the stiff breeze. 

At the airfield, we were relieved to see "Smuggler" at her tie down looking as secure as when we saw her last.  It's funny how a man-made machine can take on a "personality" - a "soul" so to speak.  I can't count the times on this trip so far that I talked to and about "her" as if she was a living, breathing, faithful, loyal friend.  When you are so  dependent on the integrity of anyone or anything for your safety, it's amazing how quickly the aura of kinship builds.

The flight to Gabarone was a little bumpy but fun as we flew over herds of Wildebeests and small groups of ostriches.  At the Gabarone airport we were greeted by a reception hosted by Puma Energy and some local dignitaries.  Because of our weather delay leaving Limpopo, the president of Botswana who had planned to greet us was not able to be at the airport.  A disappointment for us, but we enjoyed the crowd of aviation enthusiasts who filled the large reception tent near the parking ramp.  Live music, cocktails, food, speeches by Puma Energy and Bird Life people were the order of the afternoon.  We participated in a short air show of low fly-bys to enhance the festivities at the airport.

To wind things up, an auction was arranged to help benefit the Bird Life effort to save the African Vultures vital to the health of the African ecosystem and consequently the health of human communities.  It was very sad to learn that elephant poachers had been poisoning vultures in order to keep their illegal presence from revealing the location of the poachers' butchered prey.  The auction was a small one but highlighted the masterful work of Botswana artist Wilson Ngoni.  Two of his paintings were auctioned off and Nick and I outbid others to get his beautiful work, "Sense of Light".  My interest in and attachment to children and their childhood made having this magnificent work in our home important to always remind us that traveling the world far and wide shows above all that mankind is a family and every member of it starts out as an innocent being fascinated by light.

Wilson Ngoni was present for the auction and it was such  a pleasure to meet him and ask about his work.  He's an insightful and sensitive young man whose work absolutely goes to the core and foundation of human expression and potential.  I would love to see his work more widely known.  He has a website, so googling 'Wilson Ngoni of Botswana' will lead you to his work.

We stayed at the Travel  Lodge in Gabarone where our bathroom shared a rather "interesting" shower design as the bathroom in Gambela, Ethiopia -- water flooded the bathroom floor.  It at least, stayed in the bathroom and did not flow out into the room, under the room door and into the hallway!

At breakfast,  we learned Martyn and Julia, Mike and Colleen  and the Antonov were leaving the rally and might join us in Cape Town.  





Enroute to the Botswana capital, Gaborone.  You can see one of the rally GoPros mounted on the wing strut.  All the vintage planes had them and the videos would be collected and edited into a documentary of the rally.










One of our many greeters at Gaborone Airport.  Shyness immediately turned into enthusiastic engagement.











A nice lineup of Travel Air, Stampe, Bucker, and Waco.














Brett got a ride to Gaborone in another airplane to line up the help he would need to get his Tiger Moth repaired.  Here he is in need of light libation to cheer his spirits.










At top are the two South African striped BushCats with the reception tent in the background.

At bottom are the two remaining Tiger Moths in the rally.  South African Mark's red one and John Baxter's yellow plane from the UK.  Pilots and spectators all around. 







 This little girl was quite engrossed in her wire airplane in the reception tent.









 With Wilson Ngoni and his painting, "Sense of Light", we won at the auction.  The people at Puma very kindly took charge of having the painting properly boxed and delivered to our Florida home via DHL.  It arrived safe and sound!  It is now framed and hangs in our dining room.





Nick starting up Smuggler to take someone for a ride.
















Our "shy" little greeter came back and gave Nick a big smile as he closed up the cowling after checking the oil.  Our day was coming to a close and her presence so nicely sealed up the day's events.












 A lovely sunset as we drove away from the Gaborone Airport enroute to our hotel.

Monday, July 10, 2017

Day 29: Bulawayo, Zimbabwe to Limpopo Valley, Botswana

Joel wanted to ride with Nick in "Smuggler" this morning to take some photos so he asked if I'd mind and of course I said I wouldn't mind at all.  Caravan pilot, Steve welcomed me aboard the Grand Caravan and I got to sit in the right seat of "the flight deck".  Very special.  After flying so much in the Travel Air, I found the Caravan cockpit with all its fancy 'glass' instrumentation to look almost like the Space Shuttle.  We flew at 7500', cruising about 170mph.  At this speed, we were the first to arrive at Limpopo. On final approach I saw a herd of giraffe among the thorn trees about 400 yards from the runway.  As at Mersa Matruh in Egypt, I had the pleasure of watching as the other aircraft approached and landed,  particularly thrilled to see our blue and silver gal with Nick at the controls settling on the runway.

Brett and Pixie live in Botswana so, Kate - Brett's wife, Pixie's mother - was there to welcome us.  She made sure all our immigration forms would be ready for us, transportation to our lodge ready  to go, and cold drinks on ice waiting for us. Perfect!  The day  was gorgeous and it was an exciting feeling to know we were in a new African country with more adventure ahead and plenty behind to write home about.  John Baxter's wife, Janice, flew in from the U.K. to greet us as well.  Hadn't seen her since Crete.

The Limpopo Valley Airport is a small but tidy, well cared for facility.  It's in the middle of nowhere, but serves a great purpose as there are many tourist lodges in the area so private jets came in here from time to time.   After the rest of the rally teams arrived and planes were secured for the night, we piled into one of the many  Land Rover, 4 wheel drive vans to go to our lodge.  The vans were "topless" so no shade for the 40 minute drive to Mashatu Lodge.  The road is a bumpy, dusty trail and was exactly what I hoped for and expected before coming to Africa.  We were indeed in the wilderness of Botswana and there would be more game to see.

Our lodge was fantastic.  Rustic elegance and quiet all around.  African art and furniture decorated the sitting rooms, dining area, patios, and guest rooms.  In our room, there was a sitting area across from the bed that had a picture window the width of the room.  The view looked out on a gentle slope of thorn trees and low bushes stretching towards a meadow.

Soon after we got settled into our rooms, there was a wonderful lunch buffet in an open patio area with several long tables to accommodate all of us.  Beyond the patio is a large clearing with a watering hole where numerous impalas showed up and some very colorful, exotic birds landed as well.  At 3:30 tea was served and at 4 we headed back to the vans for a game drive into the vast preserve.  We bumped and swayed along the road and I loved every second of it.  We saw more giraffe, impalas, some elephants, Zebra, a couple of lionesses each with three cubs, a leopard resting up a tree, vultures perched on high tree branches patiently waiting for the meat-eaters to go hunting, hundreds more impalas, and stork-like birds with broad red bills.  I was particularly keen to see the elephants as they are such social animals and they behave with a kind of deliberate decorum though, I know they are capable of turning on a dime and showing some temper.  But we weren't going to give them any reason to do that.

It was time to head back to the lodge and the enormous sky started to fill with billowy  dark clouds.  A breeze picked up and out on the inky  horizon we started seeing flashes of lightning.  With the speed of a weather front ina  hurry to get somewhere, the lightning was soon nearly upon us. The claps of thunder were moderately loud which surprised me.  Well, maybe they seemed moderate to me as after ten and a half years working on a noisy Saab 340, my  hearing is a little off.  In any case, the rain and wind caught up with us and our driver tossed back to us a bunch of leaky  ponchos.  We put them on and then laughed ourselves silly as we got drenched in a lurching van plunging down into wet ravines and up the other side to rutted roads.  Up ahead was a refreshment stand set up for us and we felt happy and obliged to stop and have some drinks.  Back in the vans, we continued on to the lodge where all of us - wet, happy, and hungry -- made beelines for our showers before dinner.

We slept like babies in our comfortable lodge rooms though our alarm was set for 4:30am.  At 4;29, Estelle knocked on our door - not to make sure we were awake - rather to let us know departure time for the airport had been moved a bit later due to the weather.  Ah, another 45 minutes of sleep.






My view of Caravan cockpit and its glass panel of instruments.  

















 Captain Steve in Cessna Caravan enroute to Limpopo Valley, Botswana.










Nick and Joel taxiing out for take off at Bulawayo for flight to Limpopo Valley. 













View of 'open road' ahead in the Caravan.  The vistas throughout our trip were vast and extensive just like this. 













Our fearless leader, Sam Rutherford relaxing in back seat. 















This interesting rock formation caught my eye along our flight path. I saw an elephant lying down on its side, its dark ear flap laying flat and an eye looking up at me.  Don't ask me about the quadruple trunks it appeared to have.






























Johannes coming to greet me after he disembarked from the red Waco behind him.













Wolf walking away from his Pipistrael. Others in background are admiring the new prop he had put on after a slight mishap back in Zambia. 













The Limpopo terminal building. No walls.  It occurred to me that the airport authorities are an optimistic group.












Jeep vans to take us all to our lodge.  Only the one van had shade.

















Crossing large, dry riverbed enroute to the lodge.















Martyn hanging on over the ruts and bumbs.
















Approaching the entrance to the Mashatu Lodge. 















Lodge staff come out to greet us.
















Getting checked in. 














Our tables set for afternoon lunch buffet.  Wild life appeared at the watering hole in the back ground.












A great buffet lunch ready for us. 















I wondered if any wild animals mistook the pool for a watering hole.  












Our room and the view from the sitting area of our room.  I kept hoping a zebra, giraffe or elephant would come along.




 The big watering hole as seen from the lounge/diningroom area. Scores of impalas came down to it while we were there.





 Nick chatting with Martyn, Graham and their wives in the bar.


















Impalas arriving for their Happy Hour. 














Wolf and his daughter Emily enjoying a swim.  Colin, Fabian, and Yulie in the back ground.  












Antonov pilot Mike and wife Colleen in our van ready for the afternoon game drive.










 Fabian, Emily and Wolf in their van. Keith and Norman in the rumble seat of theirs.


Ingo, Bob, and our guides getting ready to go.  Cedric and Alexandra sitting right in front of us. Cedric had been having some problems with his plane leaking oil and had been dutifully spending extra time at the airport cleaning and nursing his plane.  On this day, he looked forward to some fun down time with the rest of us.

 On our game drive






One of Africa's endangered vultures.  Patiently he awaits the evening hunt.  These amazing birds keep the ecosystem clean and inhibit the spread of diseases.  To lose them would be a tragedy.











On drive back to lodgings, storm brews across an amazing expanse of sky with thorn trees silhouetted in foreground.